The Drinks Guide: Natural wines

— 3 May 2012

The 'Natural' Wine Guide

by Dawn Davies

With the increasing commercialisation of wine and globalisation of the industry, the way wine is made is changing. Nowadays more chemicals are sprayed on the vineyards and more additions used in the cellars. A growing band of winemakers are moving away from these processes and going back to making wine in the most natural way possible. This means turning to organics and biodynamics in the vineyards and hand harvesting the grapes. In the winery natural yeasts are being used to ferment the wines, minimal sulphur is applied and only a light filtration, if any, is used to clarify the wines.

One of the main focuses in natural wine making and the thing that is causing the most controversy is the use of sulphur in wine. Sulphur has been used as a preservative in food for decades and in low doses, it is harmless. It helps prevent oxidation and spoilage of wine and is a natural bi-product of fermentation. Natural wine makers either work with no sulphur or very low levels but this means the risk of spoilage is higher and more care needs to be taken in the winery. If care is not taken, the wines can have a cidery off notes. It has been argued that it’s this that is the true terroir of the wine but I believe it is an excuse for poor winemaking and actually does not enhance the wines. Like many things in wine, natural wines are all about personal opinions and the debates can get quite heated. However the ideals are good and when the wines are right they are fantastic. Here’s is a selection of natural wines for you to try.

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My Top 5 Natural wines

DOMAINE PIERRE ANDRÉ ET FILLE Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 06 750ml
£37.99

The wine has an intensity and power that comes from old vines and the notes of stone fruits are supported by a tangy fresh finish.

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BOBINET Amateus, Saumur Champigny 2006 750ml
£25.99

This has the elegant fruit and herbal touches of a classic Cabernet Franc but with depth of flavour that makes it a real wine lovers wine.

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AGRAPART Les 7 Cru Blanc de Blanc NV champagne 750ml

£43.99

Agrapart is a grower’s champagne house based in Avize. Creamy, buttery with baked apples on the nose. On the palate complex, savory with an amazingly long finish.

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DOMAINE ROUSSET-PEYRAGUEY Cuvée L’Alethéia 04 750ml
£36.99

This immense wine comes from one of the finest winemakers in Sauternes. The wine is just exploding with exotic fruits, orange peel, candied fruits and beeswax.

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DAUMAS GASSAC Gassac Rouge 2006
£28.79